My pals needed a septic system that pumps uphill. Their house is at the low point on the plot and for years the septic system has not yet worked well. They required to fix it so they can have toilets that actually flush in the rain. An unusually wet Spring season has accented the issue so that they made a decision to spend the sizable amount of money to correct the issue.
The device consists of the regular septic tank then a septic effluent pump tank and then a distribution tank located on the top in the hill. The new septic tank had to be placed so as to not disturb the old tank so the existing system could certainly be used during construction. The pump tank had to be located slightly underneath the septic tank so that gravity would flow the waste water to it. The septic tank effluent pump sits in the pump tank and pumps this type of water towards the distribution tank high on the hill. From that point, water will drain to the field lines by gravity.
My job was to connect the sump pump and alarm for the electrical supply. The alarm is needed from the local sewer codes to produce a visual and audible alarm should the water level inside the pump tank exceed a certain level. This provides an earlier warning that there is one thing wrong using the sewer pump.
For reliability, the alarm has to have its own separate circuit. When the alarm was powered from the supply for the pump and the breaker tripped for the pump, there would be no alarm. I installed the alarm indoors to ensure that it can be easily seen and heard as suggested through the local plumbing inspector. I connected the wires right to the alarm panel and ran them all inside conduit to ensure that it will be tamper resistant.
This house had an exterior breaker box originally installed for your AC addition. This box had a few extra spaces inside it that produced a perfect place to pull power for the new septic pump system. I used a 20 AMP GFI breaker for the sump pump service and a 15 AMP standard breaker for the alarm. Their local ACE hardware had the right breakers for this older Square D box.
By far the most labor intensive area of the job was running the underground wires from the box at the front of your home towards the septic field behind the house. A lot of the trench must be dug by hand due to close proximity from the AC compressor, flower beds along with a sidewalk. Most of the trench was dug by the plumping contractor using his backhoe.
A 12 gage wire was run for the pump along with a 14 gage wire for the alarm. The wire used was rated for direct burial so conduit was not needed. I have done run conduit for extra defense against the box down to the bottom of the 24 inch qiggkp trench each and every end in the wire. I used exactly the same 14 gage direct burial wire to increase the float wiring from the alarm unit for the field.
At the pump tank, I installed a weather proof single 20 AMP outlet over a 4×4 post. Here is where the Myers Sewer pump is connected. The plug provides the required local disconnect considering that the breaker will not be within sight from the pump tank. The float wiring was placed in a separate junction box on the same post.
A piece of conduit was cut to fit into the neck of the tank so the cord for the septic pump as well as the alarm float wiring could be protected. The conduit ends slightly underneath the outlet for that septic pump.
Our local inspector was happy with the details and water proofing. I used a compression fitting towards the bottom of each conduit run and sealed it with silicone as well to avoid critters from finding their distance to the junction boxes.
I tied a period of rope towards the sump pump, fastened the alarm float to the outlet pipe and thoroughly lowered the sewer pump into position. I secured the free end in the rope to one of many lifting lugs in the sewer pump tank. The plumbing contractor can finish his work to have their system operational. I am certain they will enjoy having the ability to take baths and flush the toilet even when it rains.